Method of making a shoe construction



Aug. 13, 1968 B. SNEIDER METHOD OF MAKING A SHOE CONSTRUCTION 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Aug. 24, 1965 2 7 INVENTOR. 15W 8M 9M L 1968 B. SNEIDER 3,396,416

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Aug. 13, 1968 B. SNEIDER METHOD OF MAKING A SHOE CONSTRUCTION 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed Aug. 24, 1965 United States Patent 3,396,416 METHOD OF MAKING A SHOE CONSTRUCTION Benjamin Sneider, 1750 Commonwealth Ave., Brighton, Mass. 02135 Filed Aug. 24, 1965, Ser. No. 482,162 1 Claim. (Cl. 12-146) ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A method of making a ladies roll-top shoe which has a conventional vamp and rear quarter assembly by forming a second assembly of a vamp lining and rear quarter lining with a doubler attached to the vamp lining. The vamp and rear quarter assembly is attached to the vamp lining along a common inner edge. The vamp and rear quarter assembly is then rolled over the vamp lining to position the doubler intermediate the vamp and vamp lining and the shoe is thereafter lasted in a conventional fashion.

The present invention relates to a shoe construction and a method of making such a shoe. More particularly, the present invention relates to the making of womens roll-top shoes.

In the manufacture of roll-top shoes, it has been customary to cement a doubler or reinforcing material to the upper with the doubler between the lining and the upper. It has been believed necessary to cement the doubler in this fashion to properly position it during fabrication of the shoe. The present invention eliminates the need of cementing the doubler to the upper and provides simpler, more efiicient, and less expensive method which also provides a better-appearing shoe.

It is estimated that the present invention reduces overall cementing time by two and one-half hours and effects other savings of manufacturing time of roll-top shoes. In addition, the present invention eliminates the heretofore frequent occurrence of wrinkles on the vamp at the vamp edge caused by cementing the doubler to the vamp. Solving this wrinkle problem eliminates the heretofore frequent need of ironing out wrinkles in the lasting and packing stages of the manufacturing process.

The present invention also minimizes the serious problem of inadvertent fiecking cement onto and dirtying the shoe vamp during manufacture.

In the present invention, a vamp doubler is suitably secured to a vamp lining. The inner edge of the vamp lining extends beyond the doubler leaving a margin. This laminated vamp lining and doubler is then secured to a quarter lining and the assembled lining is in turn secured to a vamp and quarter forming a partially finished shoe upper with the finished surfaces of this lining and upper facing each other. The to line formed by the assembled lining and partially finished upper is then cemented, rolled over to face the finished surfaces outwardly, and pressed to form a roll-top edge on the upper. The assembled upper assembly is then suitably finished and attached to a shoe in a conventional lasting process.

These and other objects and advantages of the present invention will be more clearly understood when considered in conjunction with the accompanying drawing inwhich:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of an assembled vamp and rear quarter in an initial step of this invention;

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a vamp and quarter lining with a doubler attached in accordance with a subsequent step;

FIG. 2A is a greatly enlarged, somewhat schematic cross-sectional view of the materials shown within the dotted circle of FIG. 2;

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FIG. 3 is a perspective view of a vamp and quarter of FIG. 1 with the lining of FIG. 2 attached showing a subsequent stage of the method described;

FIG. 3A is a cross-sectional view of the materials shown within the dotted circle 3A of FIG. 3;

FIG. 4 is a view corresponding to that of FIG. 3 but taken at a subsequent stage of development;

FIG. 4A is a view showing a cross sectional of the materials within the dotted circle 4A of FIG. 4;

FIG. 5 is a perspective view of a shoe upper at a stage subsequent to that shown in FIG. 4;

FIG. 6 is a perspective view of a shoe made in accordance with the present invention; and

FIG. 7 is a perspective view of a decorative insert which may be used in connection with the invention.

The vamp is made of conventional material, such as leather or plastic, and is conventionally cut with an elongated section 2 forming a part of a rear quarter 3. Segment 4 is stitched at its rear edge 5 to section 2 and at its forward edge 6 to vamp 1 to form the rest of the rear quarter 3. A tape 7 may cover the inner unfinished portion of stitched seam 6, and conventional stiffening members 8 may be cemented to the inner unfinished surface 10 at the junction of the vamp and rear quarter. The outer or finished surface 11 of the vamp and rear quarter assembly presents a smooth finished surface.

The lining-doubler assembly illustrated in FIG. 2 may be fabricated contemporaneously with the vamp and rear quarter assembly of FIG. 1. The vamp lining 20 is made of conventional material, such as leather or faille, and is conventionally cut with rear edges 21 and 22 to which stitched in a conventional manner the rear quarter lining 23 of leather, flocked laminate or similar mateiral along lines of stitching 24 and 25. The quarter lining 23 may be faced on its inner or unfinished surface with an adhesive strip 26.

A vamp doubler 27 is cemented onto the vamp lining 20 using conventional techniques. Any suitable cement may be used. The vamp lining should be of a suitable heavy or firm material. A conventional thermoplastic laminated vamp lining having a heat-activated surface may be used. In such an event, the vamp doubler may be ironed onto the inner or unfinished surface 32 of the vamp lining 20. The vamp doubler is adhered over a marginal area from the inner edge to a line approximated by dotted line 29. The inner edge 35 of the vamp doubler 27 is spaced from the inner edge 31 of the vamp lining 20 by a margin 30 of approximately 4" to 7 If desired, the vamp lining may be stitched to the quarter lining after attachement of the vamp lining and vamp doubler together.

The vamp and rear quarter assembly and the liningdoubler assembly are then attached together as illustrated in FIGS. 3 and 3A. The two assemblies are positioned in facing relation with the finished or outer surface 11 of the vamp, and rear quarter assembly facing the finished or outer surface 37 of the vamp lining 20. The two assemblies are then stitched together by a suitable line of stitching 38 extending continuously around the inner edge of the upper, with the stitching 38 preferably extending through a piping or binding 39 which border this inner edge of the upper.

The lining-doubler assembly is then rolled or folded over the vamp and rear quarter assembly to the position illustrated in FIGS. 4 and 4A. In this position, the inner unfinished surface 10 of the vamp and rear quarter faces the inner or unfinished surface 32 of the vamp lining 20 with the doubler 27 sandwiched between the vamp and rear quarter and the vamp and quarter lining. The unit presents a rolled edge or top line 40. The margin 30 is covered with a cement when the assemblies are turned inside out and the assemblies are ironed along this top line using conventional techniques to set the shape of the top line.

The upper, as thus described and as illustrated, may be finished, lasted and attached to a sole and heel in a conventional manner. The specific method of finishing will depend on the particular type of shoe being fabricated. In the embodiment described, as illustrative, the components are cut to form an openback shoe. Thus, the lower edge 50 of the rear quarter is stitched to the quarter lining by stitching 51, as illustrated in FIG. 5. The portions of the quarter lining 23 extending beyond the edge 50 of the rear quarter 3 may then be trimmed. The completed upper unit is lasted and attached to an insole, sole, sock lining and heel in a conventional manner to form a shoe as illustrated in FIG. 6. In addition, other suitable decorative attachments may be afiixed. For example, an identification pocket 100 designed to contain photographs, identifications or other material may be readily attached to the sock lining. This pocket may comprise a base sheet 101 having a back covered with a pressure-sensitive adhesive in turn covered with a protecting strippable cover sheet 102. A slot 103 in this sheet 101 extends partially across its width, preferably at its upper end and with a flap-like shape. A transparent face 104 is secured at its periphery to the base sheet 101. This may be done by any suitable means, as for example, by stitching 105. The face is preferably of a suitable plastic material. The desired insert, such as a namebearing piece of paper 106, is inserted through slot 103 between sheet 101 and face 104 prior to attachment of the pocket 100 to the shoe. The cover sheet 102 then is stripped from base sheet 101 to expose the adhesive and the adhesive is pressed against sock lining 107.

What is claimed is:

1. In a method of making a roll-top shoe, the steps comprising,

forming a vamp and rear quarter assembly,

forming a second assembly of a vamp lining and rear quarter lining with a doubler attached to the vamp lining,

said doubler being cemented to said vamp lining at a marginal distance from the inner edge of said vamp lining, said distance remaining constant from the edge of said doubler to said inner edge with cement positioned at a marginal area defined by said marginal distance,

attaching said first-mentioned and said second assemblies together vby stitching extending therethrough along common inner edges with said doubler on one side of said vamp and vamp lining and with finished surfaces of said vamp and vamp lining facing each other,

rolling said first-mentioned assembly over said second assembly to position said doubler intermediate said vamp and vamp lining, and pressing said first and second-mentioned assemblies togeeher along said inner edge after said rolling over and thereafter lasting said first-mentioned and said second assemblies.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,526,555 2/1925 Luppino 12-146 1,531,153 3/1925 Steil 36-45 2,018,510 10/1935 Brauer et a1 36-55 X 2,080,501 5/1937 Newman 12-146 2,244,860 6/1941 Tilt et al. 12-146 2,618,870 11/1952 Tarlow 36-55 JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner. H. HUNTER, Assistant Examiner. 

